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Old 02-03-2003, 10:05 AM   #1
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you guys have any tranny tips or secrets post them hear.
what is your tranny lube of choice?

how often do you guys rebiuld or go through your transmissions?
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Old 02-03-2003, 05:30 PM   #2
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You should rebuild your diff as soon as it gets a gritty feeling to it, Associated stealth lube works good for the rings and balls, AE black grease works good for the thrust assembly.

As for the gears, you shouldn't have to worry about them unless they are melted or stripped. Don't think that you have to replace all the gears when you rebuild the tranny - worn in gears work the best. just make sure the tranny case/gears are clean after you rebuild. After everything is clean and ready to put back together put a light coat of some thin oil on the gears. Don't put grease on the gears.

Also to make your tranny roll as freely as possible you can degrease the bearings by soaking them in lacquer thinner. on-road guys take the seals off the bearings and do this but for off-road you can leave the seals on if they are made of teflon or metal.
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Old 02-04-2003, 10:45 PM   #3
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i am hearing of a few racers who rebuild there tranny almost every two weeks is this absolutely neccesary. Although there trucks are very fast and always finish good, but still, that could get pricey after a while especially without sponsors helping you out.
my truck stays clean and i have nspected my tranny and the mesh on the gears still seems to be in good shape, what about the diff and the thrust bearing?
Is it necessary to replace the thrust washers, how much do they actually wear?
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Old 02-04-2003, 11:20 PM   #4
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It is always a good idea to rebuild the DIFF every 2 or 3 weeks, especially if you race in conditions that require a tighter diff setting. but this is just a rebuild, just clean the rings, balls and gear, and put it back together, you shouldn't have to replace parts every time you rebuild. The guys you see rebuilding their trannys every couple of weeks are just making them operate smoothly again by cleaning the existing parts.

The only thing you may have to replace often is the thrust washers, but still you should get a least a month of heavy use out of them, when they are looking worn just flip them over and your good to go.

As for the the diff rings, if you have carbide diff balls, again all you have to do is flip the rings as soon as there is a good size groove in them, the balls should last you over half a year.
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Old 02-05-2003, 12:13 AM   #5
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ill be gettin to mine soon so we will see what it looks like. thaks for the advice.
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Old 02-27-2003, 02:19 PM   #6
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I bought my B3 about 2 years ago, and if my memory serves me correct I think I oiled my diff 3 times and it is still good as new. Personally I think that associated has the best diffs i've ever seen. I had a XXXT and it seemed like I had to replace the thrust washers every coupple of weeks!
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Old 02-28-2003, 02:12 AM   #7
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My diffs (Losi) go for months without need for rebuilds, never slip, and stay smooth. This applies to electrics and the NT. For losi offroad diffs, the most important thing is to carefully follow the assembly manual in all areas with one exception which I'll explain in a bit. After trying lots of different greases, the best is still the Losi diff lube on the diff balls - enough so they are constantly bathed in a thin film (the AE diff lube should be just as good here). Second use a good grease like a white #2 EP on the thrust assembly and lots of it. Lube on the TB is critical. Ronnie grease also works here but I now use white EP. I don't use the white assembly grease supplied by Losi for the thrust bearing. In my opinion it's too thin and tends to migrate out of the thrust bearing, leaving it vulnerable to wear from inadequate lubrication. That is why your TB wears prematurely and perhaps it may be a factor in reputed Losi diff problems - who knows? Lube failure in the TB gives that gritty feeling. Very important, the thrust bearing grease needs to form a dirt proof seal with the blue foam seal and it needs to stay put so a #2 grease is about right. After disassembly, my TB is shiny clean - no dirt, if it's not, that's the problem. 3) The diff must not be allowed to slip. If you hear it barking, that's the sound of your diff ring shedding metal from the groove the diff balls are gouging ever deeper. 4) There is no need for gear lube in the tranny case and you never want any oil from the tranny bearings to contaminate the diff grease. A free running quiet tranny is important but I'm careful not to overlube these days and compromise the diff. If you strip the diff nut, it's way too tight - something major is wrong. If by mistake you swap the small bearings in the diff with one of similar size in the tranny case, the diff will not tighten and the diff nut will strip.

Last edited by PeterAiea; 02-28-2003 at 02:27 AM.
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Old 03-01-2003, 11:14 AM   #8
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you could take off the seals of any of the bearings that do not have an exposed edge to the outside elements. clean out the grease that comes in them factory and use a very light oil instead (requires more frequent reoiling) but don't use so much oil it contaminates the diff lube. use this stuff on the gears:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX0276&P=0

replace gears when the tooth shape gets pointed. get lightweight topshaft and outdrives, very important with racing trucks and stock class. if your diff feels gritty even after rebuilding, replace your outdrives (those little trust balls run around their outside edge on the inside of the outdrive).

i open up the case once a week to check the tooth profile, lube bearings and such, otherwise i only rebuild the diff when its no longer smooth

Last edited by Scrubb; 03-01-2003 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 04-03-2003, 05:40 PM   #9
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I've put my XXX through four nights of racing and last night the diff sounded and felt terrible. I pulled it out for inspection and discovered the diff gear had a ton of little black crud inside it. I know from pan cars this wasn't good, but where is it coming from and what can I do to stop it? I'm thinking it came frome the outdrives or gearbox casing possibly, but I'm not sure. I'm definately replacing the diff gear, balls and rings. The bearings are all fine.
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