RCer4life
03-29-2009, 10:45 PM
This is my current race buggy. This setup is relatively inexpensive, yet handles very well, and is very competent on carpet tracks. To start with I purchased a RTR 18B. I considered going with a FT model instead, but had plans for the electronics that come with the RTR version so...
The first thing I did to make this buggy race ready and more reliable was to shim the diffs in order to get them ready for the power and speeds that the brushless system and lipo batteries would have to offer. If you have questions about diff shimming simply ask, and I will get you squared away. The process though is quite simple. First you need to remove the top plate from the chassis, so that you can access the diffs. Next you simply place shims on the gear side of the diff until you are left with just a tick of play between the diff gear and the input gear. Too many shims, and you will have binding. Not enough and there will be too much slop, so take your time and get it right. Every vehicle will be different so the number of shims will vary from model to model and front to rear.
The next step was to install a brushless motor and ESC. I opted for Castle Creations Mamba system for a few reasons. One is they have top notch customer service. The systems are also very fast, and provide plenty of torque and smooth operation. My favorite thing about these systems though is the option to use the Castle Link software, and cable. This allows me to fine tune everything from motor timing, to throttle and brake curves all easily on my PC screen. Very cool, and very simple and convenient. I went with a 5400kv combo for its versatility. It has plenty of low end power which allows me to gear up for larger tracks, but still has plenty of speed when being run on 7.4v lipo batteries. Depending on how it is geared and the way it's set up and programmed it is capable of near 40 mph top speeds, and will still have enough power to pull wheelies if that's your thing.
Step three was to install a radio system that is more suitable for racing, and less prone to interference than the RTR's original AM radio system. I chose an Hitec Aggressor FM system for it's reputation for reliability, as well as it's relatively low price, and the fact that it includes a micro receiver that fits perfectly onto the chassis of the RC18 platform.
I also installed a set of Factory Team threaded body aluminum shocks for tuning simplicity, but these are certainly not necessary, as the stock platic shocks actually worked quite well. One other thing I did was to install an RPM front bumper. For the $5 these cost they offer a priceless amount of protection to the front end of these models, and with one in place I have yet to experience any parts failure.
Last but not least I decided to go with a JConcepts Illuzion body. These bodies look fantastic, but best of all you won't have the same old RTR body that everybody else has.
For those interested I am running Hyperion Litestorm 1800mah 2s 7.4v lipos. These packs have incredible punch, and excellent run times. For charging duties I use an Hyperion EOS 5i dp. This charger works exceptionally well, and can charge nicd, nimh, lipo, and lead acid batteries. What more could you ask for in an RC charger?
I am also using a set of Trinity 1/10 adapters, so that I can run 1/10 touring car foam tires. Some tracks do not allow the use of 1/10 tires, so be sure to check your local rules before making the change.
If you have any questions about this setup just ask. I am more than happy to help a fellow enthusiast out.
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd78/fast-max/AE%20RC18B/18b22.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd78/fast-max/AE%20RC18B/18BGRP1004-2.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd78/fast-max/AE%20RC18B/18BGRP1005.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd78/fast-max/AE%20RC18B/18BGRP1001.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd78/fast-max/AE%20RC18B/cowrc015.jpg
The first thing I did to make this buggy race ready and more reliable was to shim the diffs in order to get them ready for the power and speeds that the brushless system and lipo batteries would have to offer. If you have questions about diff shimming simply ask, and I will get you squared away. The process though is quite simple. First you need to remove the top plate from the chassis, so that you can access the diffs. Next you simply place shims on the gear side of the diff until you are left with just a tick of play between the diff gear and the input gear. Too many shims, and you will have binding. Not enough and there will be too much slop, so take your time and get it right. Every vehicle will be different so the number of shims will vary from model to model and front to rear.
The next step was to install a brushless motor and ESC. I opted for Castle Creations Mamba system for a few reasons. One is they have top notch customer service. The systems are also very fast, and provide plenty of torque and smooth operation. My favorite thing about these systems though is the option to use the Castle Link software, and cable. This allows me to fine tune everything from motor timing, to throttle and brake curves all easily on my PC screen. Very cool, and very simple and convenient. I went with a 5400kv combo for its versatility. It has plenty of low end power which allows me to gear up for larger tracks, but still has plenty of speed when being run on 7.4v lipo batteries. Depending on how it is geared and the way it's set up and programmed it is capable of near 40 mph top speeds, and will still have enough power to pull wheelies if that's your thing.
Step three was to install a radio system that is more suitable for racing, and less prone to interference than the RTR's original AM radio system. I chose an Hitec Aggressor FM system for it's reputation for reliability, as well as it's relatively low price, and the fact that it includes a micro receiver that fits perfectly onto the chassis of the RC18 platform.
I also installed a set of Factory Team threaded body aluminum shocks for tuning simplicity, but these are certainly not necessary, as the stock platic shocks actually worked quite well. One other thing I did was to install an RPM front bumper. For the $5 these cost they offer a priceless amount of protection to the front end of these models, and with one in place I have yet to experience any parts failure.
Last but not least I decided to go with a JConcepts Illuzion body. These bodies look fantastic, but best of all you won't have the same old RTR body that everybody else has.
For those interested I am running Hyperion Litestorm 1800mah 2s 7.4v lipos. These packs have incredible punch, and excellent run times. For charging duties I use an Hyperion EOS 5i dp. This charger works exceptionally well, and can charge nicd, nimh, lipo, and lead acid batteries. What more could you ask for in an RC charger?
I am also using a set of Trinity 1/10 adapters, so that I can run 1/10 touring car foam tires. Some tracks do not allow the use of 1/10 tires, so be sure to check your local rules before making the change.
If you have any questions about this setup just ask. I am more than happy to help a fellow enthusiast out.
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd78/fast-max/AE%20RC18B/18b22.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd78/fast-max/AE%20RC18B/18BGRP1004-2.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd78/fast-max/AE%20RC18B/18BGRP1005.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd78/fast-max/AE%20RC18B/18BGRP1001.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd78/fast-max/AE%20RC18B/cowrc015.jpg